Passionate about trotting

The perfect midsummer family getaway in Virginia’s unexpected wine country.

the road to Salamander Resort & Spa The wind blows through the pastoral landscape. There are vineyards. There are some sweet villages with stacked stone fences. There were horses grazing, their coats glistening in the sun.

The scenery here is reminiscent of rare destinations like southern France or northern California. However this hotel is not far from either place. Instead, visitors find themselves traveling through the lesser-known and less romantic town of Middleburg, Virginia (about an hour’s drive from Washington, D.C.).

However, while the setting was unexpected, it did not disappoint.

Set on 340 acres with 168 rooms and suites, its winding estate and circular driveway, this upscale hotel first opened in 2013 and has been loved ever since for its rare combination of wholesome warmth and impeccable service. “Salamander Middleburg is in an extremely unique location…rich in history and beautiful scenery,” said Ashley Dale, Director of Spa and Wellness. It’s the kind of hidden gem that families, couples and groups of friends return to every year, vowing to remain silent lest their sanctuary be flooded. Since opening, it has become known for its unique equine offerings, including its mascot, a miniature horse named Cupcake. Now, with the unveiling of its new luxury Champion Pool – which offers everything from lounging on underwater loungers to floating in a sound bath – it’s upping the ante on summer fun.

Many of the unique details that set Salamander Middleburg apart can be traced to owner and CEO Sheila Johnson, co-founder of BET and the first black female billionaire. From the beginning, she delivers something noble while staying true to her character. For example, when she took over the land, which was once a farm owned by a World War II fighter pilot, she kept the original name, inspired by the concept that salamanders could walk and survive in fire. Her vision also includes an equestrian center housed in a 14,000-square-foot stable just steps from the main building, where guests can enjoy lessons, trail rides, pony parties and sometimes even equestrian mindfulness experiences. An exhibition of Harry Benson’s photographs is prominently displayed on the lobby’s walls and includes portraits of recent presidents from Coretta Scott King to Barack Obama.

So while resorts often claim they have something to offer everyone, at Salamander Middleburg, that’s actually true. The kid-friendly Gold Cup Wine Bar serves upscale casual cuisine, while the Harrimans Grill fine dining restaurant in the lobby offers a full tasting menu. There are life-size chess and corn hole on the lawn, as well as archery, pickle ball, tennis, hiking trails and a zip line for the adventurous. This award-winning spa offers signature services, from restorative CBD body rituals to aromatic scalp treatments to results-driven HydraFacials. And, of course, there’s the stylish new swimming pool, complete with cabanas and adjacent but separate children’s and adults’ areas, with a glass-like infinity effect. “You can spend the day with the family at the pool, zip line or equestrian center, but you can also relax at the spa or attend a wine tasting event in town,” said Dale, director of spa and wellness.

And there are scones — the signature pecan butterscotch baked good that, if nothing else, appeals to crowds of all ages. It is these smaller offerings that provide the most authentic sense of place.

Of course, sometimes doing nothing is the best option. “I love all the quiet places to relax or read,” Dale said. “Whether you want to read in the library or relax with a book in the culinary garden or spa, this is the perfect place to enjoy a quiet moment.” For many parents especially, this can be the biggest treat of all.